Showing posts with label basalt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label basalt. Show all posts

Sunday, 18 February 2024

Bouldering near Dunsapie Loch, Holyrood Park

 


I'm pretty sure bouldering near Dunsapie Loch is forbidden. But if it wasn't...


Wednesday, 27 April 2022

Bouldering in Dunagoil mini-topo II

 

Boom! 6a.


Don't slap, it's sharp, 6b.

 

 To be or not to be precise, 7a.


Am bàl dòrnach, 5. 

 

It's not how you fall, it's how you land, 6b.

 

The seamstress low-start, 7a/7a+?

 

Coup de maître, 6a (probably my favourite problem at Dunagoil)

 


Bouldering in Dunagoil (Isle of Bute)

Here's a mini-topo of problems I climbed at Dunagoil on Bute. 

I'll try to post up pictures when I get a chance.

Creag a tuath (North cliff)

The arête of death  f4
Morning sunshine  f4

An sgàrdan (the scree)

It's not how you fall, it's how you land.  f6B
Coup de maître  f6A
The Seamstress sit-start  f7A+
The Seamstress  f6B+
Don't slap, it's charp!  f6B
Aoife's mental  f4+
Boom!  f6A

An uamh mhòr (the big cave)

To be or not to be precise.  f7A

Port Dòrnach (the old name of the pebble beach)

Am bàl dòrnach (the boxing ball)  f5


Thursday, 26 June 2014

Craiglockhart - Update

Bouldering near Edinburgh, Wester Craiglockhart Hill


1. The Pinch, 6c+ 


From any hold to the right of the 'Shark' arete, deadpoint (or dyno) to a white sloper below the top and finish on the sharp jaws of the 'Shark'. 

2. The Pinch SS, 7b. 


Eliminate. Sit start at a broken brown vertical rib to the right of 'Shark' (harder for the tall). Any good hold on the left side corner/arete is out. Pull on small edges to gain a LH sloper and RH square pinch hold - or any other small edge and finish as for the pinch.

3. Hung Parliament, 6a+


Sit start under the bulge. Pull hard on crimps and sloper to reach the only good jugs of the wall. A technical sequence leads to hidden holds at the high break. Finish traversing left and down on ‘Shark’.

4. Hung Parliament direct 6a


As previous but finish straight up at the break on good holds.

5. The niche, 6b. 


Sit start at good but sharp crimp, slot or undercut into the small niche and reach for the flat diagonal side pull/pinch. From there, traverse left and finish as for ‘Hung Parliament’.

6. The niche direct, P

Eliminate. Sit Start as previous but straight up on crimps to the high break of ‘Hung Parliament direct’. The LH jugs and RH scoopish sloper by the ivy are out.