A Perla negra (II) - Tirán (Neno do Curvo, Moaña)

Bouldering at Tirán beach (Neno do Curvo, Moaña/Cangas), O Morrazo, Pontevedra, Galicia

"O que se pode ver en Neno do Curvo son rocas de dous tipos: unhas de natureza aceda e cor clara (as granodioritas e granitos) e outras de natureza básica e cor verde escura, ás veces case negro (gabros, cuarzodioritas e tonalitas)."

(La Voz de Galicia, 22/05/2007)

1. 5, arista, sentado
2. Groovy, 4, sentado
3. 4, sentado
4. Barrera extension, 6a, sentado, travesia hacia la izquierda, salir en Groovy.
5. Barrera directa, 6b, entrada sentado, salida directa.
6. A Perla negra***, sentado, 6c (saida dereita) / 7a (directa)
7. 6b, mantel, sentado
8. Abordaxe, 6c, sentado
9. 5+, de pies
10. A proa da Perla negra, 5 de pies, 7b, entrada sentado

A Perla negra - Tirán (Neno do Curvo, Moaña)

Bouldering at Tirán beach (Neno do Curvo, Moaña/Cangas), O Morrazo, Pontevedra, Galicia

 La popa de la Perla negra, 7a, SS (sentado)

La proa de la Perla negra, 7b, SS (sentado)

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Bulder Pedra Rubia - Mougás (II)

Zoiber, 7b, SS (sentado) 

Guide book: Bulder Pedra Rubia - Mougás by César Álvarez

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Bulder Pedra Rubia - Mougás

A cova de Xinxan, 7a+, SS (sentado) 

Guide book: Bulder Pedra Rubia - Mougás by César Álvarez

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Cabo Udra (I)

Pousa, pousa, 7a, de pies/standing start
(Entrada sentado: proyecto)

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Praia de Limens - Barreiras

 The worst spotter ever, 6c+, sentado (SS)


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Bouldering in Galicia - Granito Galego (III)

Bouldering in Galicia - Granito Galego (II)

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FONTAINEBLEAU

It must be a middle age thing. I'm developing a growing frustration every time I see French names misspelled.

So this post is for any English speaker who attempts to write about Font.

Copy/paste the spelling below whenever you need it (Select the text with your mouse and use Ctrl+C and Ctrl+V to insert the name in your word file/blog/facebook/twitter or whatever support you are using:

FONTAINEBLEAU

Or in lower caps :

Fontainebleau

And if you really, really, really, really, really, really cannot be arsed, then (by all means) stick to the usual English spelling - use "Font".It's perfectly fine. Everyone knows it and this way, you won't be polluting the Internet.

Finally, for those who don't understand texts that don't contain smiley punctuation, I want to stress that the tone of this post is not angry. The aim of this post is  to help you, genuinely. 

Grading traverses II

Bouldering grade maths - adding grades

So with Full Frontal sent, I'm scratching my head again with traverse grades.

The problem with traverses is their hybridal status. The number of moves is usually way beyond what's in your average boulder problem. Indeed, I've counted 24 hand moves for Full Frontal - 64 moves if I include foot placements.

The fontainebleau approach is to use sports grade for traverse, e.g. if the hardest move is 6c, the traverse would be worth 7a+. The problem with such system is that there is no difference between a 7a+ traverse of 10 moves and a 7a+ traverse of 40 moves, not to mention the fact that traverses are still boulder lines and their grades should not take into account any other factor than technique, which is not the case for sports routes.

Another solution is to break the traverse into boulder problems, then grade these problems and use a logical rule to add the grades. Here's the Australian Bouldering proposal for instance:

"The rule of thumb that we use at AB.C is this: the addition of two boulder problems of the same grade equates to one boulder problem of the grade +2. So a V9 into a V9 should produce a V11. Everything else works around that premise. The following examples (based on V9) should help convey the idea:

V9 + V6 = V9,
V9 + V7 = V10,
V9 + V8 = V10,
V9 + V9 = V11,
V9 + V10 = V11,
V9 + V11 = V12,
V9 + V12 = V12"

Whatever system I choose though, one may argue that I won't really be objective because I have been trying that line for nearly two years.

I had done the R-L and L-R traverses last year and started to try and link them during last summer. Back from Galicia in September, I had to rework the sequence because it had become much harder after I broke a key crimp. 

Then November arrived with its usual rainy days. Then came December with its unusual 40 cm of pow. Work picked up. Life got busy. I was close but I needed more time.

So when I finally sent it two weeks ago, I felt like if I had climbed something really hard for my standards. But none of the moves is harder than 6b+/c and when I try to be objective, I must admit that it is simply of matter of stamina.

This and the fact that I never really enjoyed this type of climbing - lots of moves on small edges on a nearly vertical rock - made me wonder about the grade. Should I actually knock down a couple of grades because it does not suit me?