Saturday, 13 July 2024

Escalada cerca de Avín, Asturias

Potencial para escalada deportiva y bloque, a 15 minutos adando desde el camping Picos de Europa, en Avín (As-114).
El sitio es una barra de caliza perdida en un bosque al fundo d'un pequeño cañon cerca del Arroyo de la Huesal.

Mapa

https://goo.gl/maps/Dnc6DPFui53CgrcR7

Video 

https://youtube.com/watch?v=RYyjj35P01c&feature=shared

Fotos



Sunday, 23 June 2024

Torwood - Tappoch Roofs - Bird Brain Roof

 


Bird Brain Roof is the smaller roof just before Reeky Roof.

Bird Brain Traverse, 6b. Traverse the entire lip of the roof from the left side corner, all the way to finish with an easy mantle at the extreme right hand side. 

Bird Brain, 6b. Crouch start at the back of the roof. Move to good holds in the roof to reach the lip. Then traverse rightwards as per Bird Brain Traverse.

 

Tit, 6a. Bird Brain Roof right hand side –crouch start at the back of the roof both hands on the pilar looking feature. Make awkward moves left to good holds in the roof, then to good holds on the lip. Mantle to top out.

 

Wren, 7a. Bird Brain Roof right hand side –crouch start at the back of the roof both hands on the pilar looking feature. Dyno to the lip then mantle to top out.

 

Chaffinch, 6b. Bird Brain Roof right hand side - Can be done statically if you are tall. Crouch start on the thin undercling edge slightly right to the pilar feature. Launch to the lip, then mantle a top out.








Thursday, 4 April 2024

Bouldering in Corstorphine, Edinburgh



Daliath and Govid (eliminate) - Sit-start as for 'David' and 'Goliath'. Eliminate the holds on the left and the big vertical edge on the right. from the high crimp, launch directly to the top holds. 7a.



Deuteronomy - A few meters left of the Goliath boulder. Climb the wee overhang from a sit-start on a low flake. Launch to small crimps then to better holds higher up to top out. 6a+



Saturday, 30 March 2024

Hummell Rocks (Gullane) - Get Lucky link

 


Get Lucky - Sit-start as per 'Dumb Luck' but instead of going up, continue to traverse on poorer holds to reach the lip of the 'Mini-roof'. Follow that line rightwards to bridge back to Neanderthal and climb down easily to finish. 6b-ish?

Thursday, 21 March 2024

Bouldering near Crichton Castle


Pyramid - The right hand side and arête of the obvious pyramidal block in the left hand side of the upper quarry. 4+

Cheops (eliminate) - Climb the obvious arête in the left hand side of the upper quarry. Eliminate any holds on the sides. 5+


Follow the line - Traverse R-L along a ledge from a groove to the left of Griby's shelf. Reach up for a high edge in the middle, match and then drop back on small edges to finish in the far corner. 4+

Sunday, 18 February 2024

Bouldering near Dunsapie Loch, Holyrood Park

 


I'm pretty sure bouldering near Dunsapie Loch is forbidden. But if it wasn't...


Wednesday, 14 February 2024

Tuesday, 11 April 2023

Bouldering in Ard Scalpsie Point - Isle of Bute (mini-topo II)

The coasts of Port na h-Aille and Ard Scalpsie Point have some small outcrops and screes. Most of the rock is made of a flacky mica-schist (too many holds). The stones are often too small and covered of lichens. A huge vein of igneous rock (basalt) crosses the peninsula and forms a decent south west facing crag.

Here are a few decent problems and their locations.

        • Groovy, SS, 4+
        • Pinch the nipple, 6a
        • Sidestep, 5
        • Descent route, 3
        • Rock over, 4+
        • Wall direct, 4


        • Canadian barndance, 4
        • Boston two steps, 6c




        • The floor is lava, SS, 6c
        • Time is of the essence, SS, 7a+
        • I spy with my little eye, SS, 6a
        • The rail, SS, 5
        • The wall, SS, 4