Bouldering at Hummell rocks (II)

Hummell wall - Gullane beach (near Edinburgh)

I've climbed another few problems on the mini-cliff wall of Hummell Rocks, at Gullane beach, near Edinburgh (East Lothian).

Don't use any hard/wire brushes pretty please!

1. Prow, 4. Can be topped out but descent is harder than the ascent.

2. Prow eliminate, 6b. Any holds on  the left side of the round prow is out. Sit start at obvious twin side pulls and move up on crimps till the top.

3. Tangology, 7a. Sit start on two big flatties. Make an awkward step leftward to small edges. Settle using a vague thumb catch side sloper, before launching to juggy holds above. Finish more easily but high or jump off.

4. Rise of the caveman, 6a+. Eliminate - no bridging allowed on the right or left.  Sit-start at the mini-cave on good flatties. Rock onto a left foothold to reach a higher flat ledge. Reach high and leftward to a good wide edge. Finish at the line of jugs above.

4. High and dry, 6a. Easier for the tall. From the sandy hole or the small edge, launch up to reach a hidden jug. Move up and rightwards to good holds. Jump off or finish up (not recommended on your own).

Bouldering at Hummell rocks

Hummell wall - Gullane beach (near Edinburgh)

I've climbed a few problems on the mini-cliff wall passed Hummell rocks, at Gullane beach, near Edinburgh (East Lothian). The ones below are the least sandy, but you will still need a gentle brush to clean off the holds (especially after kids' sand battles).

Don't use any hard/wire brushes pretty please!

1. Crimpy arête, 6a. Stand start on a two fingers pocket hole and climb the vague arête on crimps. escape and descent leftward on the slab.

2. Hummeliation, 6b. Step up from the finger tips pockety crack at head height and slap to crimps. Then up and finish as previous.

2 bis. Humiliation, 7a. As previous but start hanging both hands on the finger tips pockety crack.

3. Slab and wall, 5+. Step onto the slab then traverse left onto the wall and finish as previous.

4. Mini-Roof, 6a+. SS under the mini-roof, rock over the lip and finish up as high as you wish. Nice problem with a perfect landing (no mat required!!!).

There's a small alley at the back of the wall, which looks nice. Unfortunately, all the lines are easy and the place gets interesting only once you start eliminating:

Bouldering at Agassiz rock - The Lock Reloaded

Agassiz rock, Blackford Hill, Edinburgh

A major hold of the crag, an undercutting finger pocket under the small roof of the overhang, is completely gone. A flat edge remains, which opens potential for new versions of the classic lines.

Here's one of my owns, The Lock Reloaded, a cool sit-start that includes a couple of dynamic slaps and a high (but easy) top out:

Outdoor Bouldering near Edinburgh

Agassiz Rock and Salisbury Crags

Dynamic panoramic view of Agassiz Rock

According to Robert Craig, a self-proclaimed “native Scot with the inside knowledge that entails”, “the best-known bouldering area near Edinburgh is Aberdour”.

Craig goes as far as claiming that “Salisbury Crags aren't good quality climbing”.

Given the advice is available on a website called “Allexperts dot com”, one is tempted to take it for granted.

Dear Edinburgh visitor, who's joining the crowds of the "Homecoming Scotland 2014", don’t be fooled. Judging by his assessment of rock quality, that expert is probably a hill walker who thinks that bouldering is another way to reach the top of a mountain.

The best outdoor bouldering in Edinburgh is at Salisbury Crags and Agassiz Rock

Salisbury Crags - The South Quarry

Salisbury Crags are the best venue in Edinburgh in terms of both rock quality and setting.

And by its overhanging nature and its profusion of holds, Agassiz Rock, near Blackford quarry, provides the best naturel training venue for bouldering in Edinburgh.

But if you think that soloing 10 meters high HVS routes above spiky rocks  - or at best above very shallow waters – is the definition of good bouldering, then yes, Aberdour is probably a bouldering venue.

All experts indeed.

Undeniably Glendo

Glendalough from the sky

The beauty of watching British TV crime series is that you get to see Wicklow, where they are actually shot.

Gairloch coast

Bouldering near Gairloch (Carn Dearg YH/Sands camping) and North Erradale, Ross & Cromarty, Highlands

1. Black wall, SS, 3

2. Tank Top, SS + traverse, 5

3. Sex air an traìgh, SS/dyno, 7a

4. Topless, SS/deadpoint from crimps, 6b

5. Am Buntàta reamhar, eliminate: double dyno (both hands) from SS, 6c

6. Font & low, SS, 6a

7. Font & low direct, SS, 6b

8. Project

Cave Area

Potential for highballs with bad landings or trad routes with good gear

9. Grug, SS from big sloper and deadpoint over the lip, 6a

10. The Croods' traverse, SS, 6b

11. Eep, SS to sloper traverse and mantelshelf and up, 5+

12. Guy, SS, wall and rock over mini-roof, 6a

13. Crack and flake wall, 5 (project from SS)

More bouldering/climbing potential around

Finisterre - O Granito galego

Bouldering in Galicia - Finisterre trailer (Mens segment)

I've said many things along those lines before but here it goes:

"Far-off from Europe’s mainstream bouldering hotspots lies one of the continent’s most overlooked climbing regions.

Galicia, in the northwest of Spain, has many things to offer. Spectacular boulder fields litter the storm-tossed coast and the undulating hinterlands.

But it’s the locals that make this lovely spot of land so special. People like Ben de Corme or Finuco Martinez, who contributed to establish one of the most interesting bouldering areas, sparkle with motivation and hospitality.

Follow the three Austrians, David, Niko and Stefan, on a journey to the world’s end, where they find out, what bouldering in Galicia is all about".