Monday, 3 June 2013
Friday, 19 April 2013
Sand Bay, Ross & Cromarty
Bouldering at Sand Bay, Applecross, Ross & Cromarty
Spent Easter weekend in Ross and Cromarty. Added two cool problems to Sand Bay's MOD boulder.
Neolithic Orangeman direct, 6c, sit start
Wednesday, 28 November 2012
Bare hand climbing (AKA the real thing)
The editorial director of Le Monde diplomatique, recently lamented the threat that cheap news represent for serious journalism. Truth is, serious journalism is a rare thing these days. With the death of French climber Patrick Edlinger, cheap news titles were inevitable. You know what I’m talking about - “bare hand” climbing (escalade “à mains nues”).
Guess what? They
all fell for it:
Libération “Patrick Edlinger, mains nues ciao” (18/11/2012)
L’express “Patrick Edlinger, qui avait effectué à mains nues et parfois même sans être assuré...” (17/11/2012)
L’humanité “On l'y voyait vivre totalement sa passion, l'escalade, évoluer dans les gorges du Verdon sans corde, à mains nues, en solo intégral.” (17/11/12)
La Croix “Patrick Edlinger, pionnier de l’escalade à mains nues, est mort” (17/11/12)
We all remember La Vie au bout des doigts
(if you’re my age or over that is...), a documentary by Jean-Paul Janssen, featuring
Edlinger when he was not yet a legend. This film changed him into a real star in
France (forget climbing gear sponsors, French biscuits LU made millions using
his charisma). More importantly, climbing reached a wider audience thanks
to Edlinger.
It’s almost thirty
years since La vie au bout des doigts
was released ; thirty years since Edlinger became a legend ; thirty years since
climbers started to seriously promote climbing for all. For thirty years France
has seen climbing walls flourishing in city parks, schools, and even at
nurseries... Climbing walls for all! Nowadays, even the French leaving cert
candidates may choose climbing as sports exam - yes, we do have a sports exam
for the leaving cert, the so called “education physique et sportive”.
In 1985, surfing the
Edlinger wave, French climbers founded the French Climbing Fédération, who merged
with the French Mountaineering Fédération a few years later, to become the
FFME, a organisation who participated in the birth of the climbing World Cup and
who’s now campaigning for the integration of climbing in the Olympics.
And yet, thirty years
later, journalists keep talking about climbing “with bare hands”. It makes you
wonder if they do any investigation on the topic before writing their papers.
How about gymnastics,
or swimming with "bare hands" ?
PS: We'll miss you
sorely Mr. Edlinger.
Tuesday, 18 September 2012
A Perla negra (II) - Tirán (Neno do Curvo, Moaña)
Bouldering at Tirán beach (Neno do Curvo, Moaña/Cangas), O Morrazo, Pontevedra, Galicia
"O que se pode ver en Neno do Curvo son rocas de dous tipos: unhas de natureza aceda e cor clara (as granodioritas e granitos) e outras de natureza básica e cor verde escura, ás veces case negro (gabros, cuarzodioritas e tonalitas)."
(La Voz de Galicia, 22/05/2007)

- 5, arista, sentado
- Groovy, 4, sentado
- 4, sentado
- Barrera extension, 6a, sentado, travesia hacia la izquierda, salir en Groovy.
- Barrera directa, 6b, entrada sentado, salida directa.
- A Perla negra***, sentado, 6c (saida dereita) / 7a (directa)
- 6b, mantel, sentado
- Abordaxe, 6c, sentado
- 5+, de pies
- A proa da Perla negra, 5 de pies, 7b, entrada sentado
Sunday, 16 September 2012
A Perla negra - Tirán (Neno do Curvo, Moaña)
Bouldering at Tirán beach (Neno do Curvo, Moaña/Cangas), O Morrazo, Pontevedra, Galicia
La popa de la Perla negra, 7a, SS (sentado)
La proa de la Perla negra, 7b, SS (sentado)
Tuesday, 11 September 2012
Sunday, 9 September 2012
Bulder Pedra Rubia - Mougás
Friday, 7 September 2012
Tuesday, 21 August 2012
Monday, 15 August 2011
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