Training Routine

This is my new training project at Agassiz Rock - linking as many loops as possible.

I know neither the name of the problem nor its grade. I think it's a variation of Jammin' Beneath the Darkness (7a) but in any case it provides a good routine for training, one loop making about 20 moves. Exactly what I needed to build a bit of stamina outside :)

Bouldering at Agassiz rock, Agassize XL

Agassize XL

An undocumented L-R traverse that follows the line of least resistance of the entire crag.

Start at Rock-over (6a). 
Follow the High Traverse (aka Louie-Louie, 6b) until it runs out and move into the high groove (resting is cheating!).
Then follow a line of good crimps above the shield and settle on jugs. Make a long move to the crimps of Passing the prow (7a+, first crux). A technical sequence allows to drop onto a juggy shelf.
From the shelf, easier moves allow to step onto a big solid boss shield.
From the shield move around the corner and drop into an overhanging crimpy traverse (second crux) till you reach a big jug on the lip of the black slab. 
Match hands on the jug, rock on the slab and finish it up.

Grade is roughly f7b/+. 

Since it's roughly 70 moves, it's probably worth F8a-ish in sport climbing money but I don't do sport climbing so I wouldn't know :-)

Bouldering at Agassiz rock - The Lock Reloaded

Agassiz rock, Blackford Hill, Edinburgh

A major hold of the crag, an undercutting finger pocket under the small roof of the overhang, is completely gone. A flat edge remains, which opens potential for new versions of the classic lines.

Here's one of my owns, The Lock Reloaded, a cool sit-start that includes a couple of dynamic slaps and a high (but easy) top out:

Outdoor Bouldering near Edinburgh

Agassiz Rock and Salisbury Crags

Dynamic panoramic view of Agassiz Rock

According to Robert Craig, a self-proclaimed “native Scot with the inside knowledge that entails”, “the best-known bouldering area near Edinburgh is Aberdour”.

Craig goes as far as claiming that “Salisbury Crags aren't good quality climbing”.

Given the advice is available on a website called “Allexperts dot com”, one is tempted to take it for granted.

Dear Edinburgh visitor, who's joining the crowds of the "Homecoming Scotland 2014", don’t be fooled. Judging by his assessment of rock quality, that expert is probably a hill walker who thinks that bouldering is another way to reach the top of a mountain.

The best outdoor bouldering in Edinburgh is at Salisbury Crags and Agassiz Rock

Salisbury Crags - The South Quarry

Salisbury Crags are the best venue in Edinburgh in terms of both rock quality and setting.

And by its overhanging nature and its profusion of holds, Agassiz Rock, near Blackford quarry, provides the best naturel training venue for bouldering in Edinburgh.

But if you think that soloing 10 meters high HVS routes above spiky rocks  - or at best above very shallow waters – is the definition of good bouldering, then yes, Aberdour is probably a bouldering venue.

All experts indeed.