Bouldering at Salisbury Crags - Devo Max Traverse

Devo Max Traverse, 7a

Undocumented Line - Eliminate of 'Non-Juggy Traverse'

Traverse left to right as per 'Non-Juggy Traverse' to reach the sloping boss (no jugs allowed). 

Stay on slopers and move over the lip of the small roof till you match a bore hole rail (small crimp, crux). 

A knee bar allows to reach the higher part of the sloppy arete up (no jugs allowed on either side).

Finish standing above in a groove corner.

7a+ without the knee bar? ;-)

Outdoor Bouldering near Edinburgh

Agassiz Rock and Salisbury Crags

Dynamic panoramic view of Agassiz Rock

According to Robert Craig, a self-proclaimed “native Scot with the inside knowledge that entails”, “the best-known bouldering area near Edinburgh is Aberdour”.

Craig goes as far as claiming that “Salisbury Crags aren't good quality climbing”.

Given the advice is available on a website called “Allexperts dot com”, one is tempted to take it for granted.

Dear Edinburgh visitor, who's joining the crowds of the "Homecoming Scotland 2014", don’t be fooled. Judging by his assessment of rock quality, that expert is probably a hill walker who thinks that bouldering is another way to reach the top of a mountain.

The best outdoor bouldering in Edinburgh is at Salisbury Crags and Agassiz Rock

Salisbury Crags - The South Quarry

Salisbury Crags are the best venue in Edinburgh in terms of both rock quality and setting.

And by its overhanging nature and its profusion of holds, Agassiz Rock, near Blackford quarry, provides the best naturel training venue for bouldering in Edinburgh.

But if you think that soloing 10 meters high HVS routes above spiky rocks  - or at best above very shallow waters – is the definition of good bouldering, then yes, Aberdour is probably a bouldering venue.

All experts indeed.