More Sandstone

With the north of Europe facing the big Flood and the south set on fire, it looks like this summer has a little bit for everyone... The lucky boulderer that I am, escaped the desperatly wet eastern Irish coast for a couple of weeks holiday in that lovely French region that is called the Languedoc. Situated at about 30mn from the mediteranean sea, just where the Larzac plateau starts, the town of Lodève has a lot to offer, a few quality sandstone bouldering spots that is. Now I know what you are going to say: why bothering with some obscure place in the south when the world sandstone bouldering Mecca lays a few kilometers away from the world capital of chauvinism? Well, firstly Font is busy, especially during the summer. Secondly Font does not have cicadas. And finally my fellow boulderers, this is holiday we are talking about: cheap wine, good food, sunbathing at the beach, games of petanque sipping pastis, afternoon siestas, and wonderful scenery over the Larzac. So if you happen to go anywhere around the Montpellier / Bezier area, have a look at the Lodève bloc website.

La Vie au bout des doigts

I just came across an online video of "La Vie au bout des doigts". This is a short film done in 1982 by a dude called Jean-Paul Janssen about another dude called Patrick Edlinger.

Patrick Edlinger is probably one of the most famous climbers in France, if not THE most famous (I mean outside the climbing world).

I am not too sure if the guy was the first to climb whatever route or grade and frankly who really cares? He inspired many kids of my age and just like Ben Moon or Lynn Hill, he became a legend.

Donegal

This weekend's plan was to visit Polldoo Glen, Muckross Head and Carrickfin. Unfortunatly Saturday was so misty that we only got an hour of climbing at Muckross Head: Just enough to try Jesus, and Joseph (Mary was too wet...) and to add a new problem below the roof to the left. Quintana is a 15 moves roof traverse which is probably around 6b when it is dry.
Sunday's better conditions allowed us to give a serious attempt to the Carrickfin's three star arete. Without any success. However we managed to climb all the other lines registered in the Short Span guide, exept for the crack route right of the three star arete (another "not easily taken away"). We also climbed a few lines at the top of the crag which did not seem to be recorded.

The Arch

Kevin Cooper and I introduced Harry Fogg to Portrane last Monday evening. We headed to the Arch sector where, as expected, Harry ran up most of the easy lines. Xmen remains unflashed, although Harry nearly got it footless on his first go. The rock was bone dry and the tide was completly out, which was prefect for trying the Arch (the line itself). But it seems that it will take me another couple of sessions this year.

New crag in Clare

Brilliant conditions last weekend in Clare.
Bit of exploration on saturday, new crag found.
Vertical limestone, about 20 meters high, facing south, some potential for bouldering, but definetly more suitable for routes.
The place will remain secret for a while as a decision must be taken on wether or not it could be bolted.

Spring in Ben's Font

Bouldering in Cloghole, Ben's Font, Co. Wicklow

April was very nice this year. Probably too warm for proper bouldering conditions but very enjoyable nevertheless; especially in Ben's Font (known to some as Cloghole) where the surrounding landscape is just perfect.

I managed to send that project on the big overhanging boulder by the river (the opposite side of Sad Punk). I decided to call it Exfoliator in the memory of my palm skin. The sit start is definitly way harder.

The following week Mickey the Dude Nicholson got a new "shallow water solo" right above a mini cove in the river.

PS: here's a bouldering guide of Ben's Font in PDF format. Enjoy!

An Taobh Tuathail

The tide was high during the evening last week so I decided to have my annual session in Bullock Harbour, the occasion to do some traditionnels deep water problems: Lan Mara, Lag Mara and my own little favorite, An Taobh Tuathail.

Video of the (possibly) first ascent back in 2004:

Albarracin

Albarracin is a wonderful bouldering spot close to Teruel in Spain. The rock is red sandstone, with a lot of roof problems. The best seasons to go are either early Spring or late Autumn. It is a real trip destination with a huge collection of problems, and still a lot to be explored. There is enough for both boulderers and trad climbers as the tors are ranging for 3m to 30m.

Shot Down in Flames

After having done most of the easy lines, I was already getting bored this summer in Portrane. So I decided to explore the rest of the place.

I had already spotted a nasty high and scary line in the cave at the back of the Arch. The fact that a few solid looking holds were pointing throughout was quite appealing and one could already imaging himself working his way up. A few shy tries had me gone up a big ledge, deadpointing through a overhanging face to catch a good flake above it. To finish it was a matter of rocking on the foot to gain a high crack on the left leading to the top.
One could quote The Magnificent Seven here:

"Vin: Reminds me of that fellow back home that fell off a ten story building.
Chris: What about him?
Vin: Well, as he was falling people on each floor kept hearing him say, "So far, so good. Tch...So far, so good!"

My right hand poped off. The landing was painful. The line is still standing.

For the time being I have called it Shot down in Flames. But one day...

Targassonne

Back from targassonne, I did an article about the french equivalent of Glendalough:

http://www.theshortspan.com/features/targassonne.htm

Here's the original website link:

http://targabloc.apinc.org/targabloc/home.html